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Zone 8 planting calendar

What to plant, pick and tend, month by month

Typical windows for Atlanta beds, built from the average last frost in late March or early April and the first frost around mid-November. Your own yard can run a week or two either way.

  • Dormant season

    January

    Too cold for most seed, right for building beds and planting dormant fruit.

    • Plant: Bare-root blueberries, figs and fruit trees while they are dormant

    • Pick: Collards, kale, turnip greens and any carrots still in the ground

    • Tend: Build and fill beds, order seed, prune blueberries and pears

  • Cool-season sowing

    February

    The first seed goes in, and the tomatoes start indoors.

    • Plant: Peas, spinach, radishes and lettuce, then potatoes from mid-month

    • Pick: Kale, collards and overwintered greens

    • Tend: Start tomato and pepper seed indoors, top up beds with compost

  • Cool-season planting

    March

    Cool-season transplants go out while a late frost is still possible.

    • Plant: Broccoli, cabbage and kale transplants, plus beets, chard and carrots

    • Pick: Spinach and radishes toward the end of the month

    • Tend: Keep frost cloth handy, mulch the beds, harden off tomato seedlings

  • Warm-season planting

    April

    After the last frost, the summer garden goes in.

    • Plant: Tomatoes, peppers and eggplant, then beans, squash, cucumbers and basil

    • Pick: Lettuce, peas, radishes and spring greens

    • Tend: Set up trellises and stake tomatoes at planting, check the drip line

  • Warm-season planting

    May

    Heat-lovers go in, and the cool-season crops finish.

    • Plant: Okra, southern peas, sweet potato slips, melons and pole beans

    • Pick: The last lettuce, peas, herbs and early squash

    • Tend: Mulch thickly, water deeply in the morning, pinch back basil

  • Summer harvest

    June

    The first tomatoes come in, and the bed needs water every day or two.

    • Plant: Okra, southern peas and sweet potato slips through mid-month

    • Pick: Squash, cucumbers, beans, the first tomatoes and rabbiteye blueberries

    • Tend: Shade sensitive greens, tie up tomatoes, keep the drip timer honest

  • Summer heat

    July

    Pick every day, and start the fall garden's seed indoors.

    • Plant: Bush beans and cucumbers for fall, broccoli and cabbage seed indoors

    • Pick: Tomatoes, peppers, okra, blueberries and the first figs

    • Tend: Pull spent plants, pick okra young, check emitters for clogs

  • Fall garden starts

    August

    Still hot, but the fall garden begins in the last weeks of the month.

    • Plant: Broccoli, cabbage and collard transplants, then carrots and beets late

    • Pick: Figs, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and the first muscadines

    • Tend: Refresh beds with compost and shade new seedlings for their first week

  • Fall planting

    September

    Cooler nights bring the second planting season.

    • Plant: Lettuce, spinach, radishes, turnips and kale, plus more carrots and beets

    • Pick: Peppers, muscadines, and sweet potatoes toward the end of the month

    • Tend: Top up beds, plant transplants in the evening, keep seed rows damp

  • Fall planting

    October

    Garlic goes in, and so do the fruit shrubs.

    • Plant: Garlic and shallots from mid-month, spinach, lettuce, then blueberries late

    • Pick: Sweet potatoes before cold nights, peppers and persimmons

    • Tend: Sow crimson clover on empty beds, rake leaves into a mulch pile

  • First frost

    November

    The first frost usually lands around mid-month, so pick what can't take it.

    • Plant: Garlic through mid-month, fruit trees and shrubs, spring bulbs

    • Pick: Peppers and green tomatoes before the frost, then collards and kale

    • Tend: Row cover over greens, mulch with shredded leaves, drain the hoses

  • Dormant season

    December

    A quiet month for greens, bare-root planting and plans.

    • Plant: Bare-root blueberries and fruit trees as the dormant season starts

    • Pick: Collards, kale, turnips, carrots and lettuce under cover

    • Tend: Mulch with shredded leaves, plan next year's layout, clean and sharpen tools

By crop

When each crop goes in

Every crop has two Atlanta windows or one. These are the typical ones, in plain terms.

  • Tomatoes, peppers and eggplant

    Transplants go out from mid-April to early May, after the last frost. A second round of tomatoes can follow in early July.

  • Beans, squash and cucumbers

    Sow from mid-April into June, then again in July and early August for a fall crop.

  • Okra, southern peas and sweet potatoes

    These want warm soil: sow or plant from May into mid-June.

  • Lettuce, spinach and radishes

    Sow from late February through March, and again from September into October.

  • Broccoli, cabbage, kale and collards

    Set transplants out from late February to March, and again from mid-August through September.

  • Carrots, beets and turnips

    Sow from February into March, and again from late August through September.

  • Potatoes and onions

    Plant seed potatoes from mid-February through March. Onion sets go in at the same time.

  • Garlic

    Plant cloves from mid-October through mid-November, and pick the following early summer.

  • Blueberries, figs and fruit trees

    Plant bare-root shrubs and trees while they're dormant, from late October through February.

Why dates shift

The calendar is a guide, not a promise

Frost dates are averages. A warm March can tempt you early, and a cold snap in April can still cost you a bed of seedlings.

What moves the dates

  • Watch the forecast for the week after you plant

  • Harden seedlings off for several days before they go out

  • Tall and steel beds warm, and dry, faster than low cedar ones

  • A bed against a south wall can run a week ahead of one in the open

An older couple in rain boots holding a tray of seedlings beside a house, with a garden hose along the bed

Questions

About the calendar

Is my yard really zone 8?

Most of Atlanta sits in zone 8 on the USDA map, with a few warm pockets and colder edges a half zone either way. Your last frost matters more than the zone number, and it moves by a week or two every year.

How much sun does a vegetable bed need?

Six hours of direct sun is a good floor for tomatoes, peppers and squash. Leafy greens and herbs get by with less. We check the sun with you at the visit, hour by hour, before a bed goes in.

Can you plant it for me?

Yes. Our seasonal planting visits follow this calendar: we pull what's finished and plant what's next, with seedlings we choose together.

Want the calendar planted for you?

We come on the dates, pull what's done and plant what's next.